After all the worries and near misses and PCR tests to avoid getting Covid in Europe, Omicron finally caught up with us a week after we got back at the Thursday night jam session at Nimrods Rum Shop.The following Monday I was completely exhausted and could barely lift my head from the pillow so we took a rapid antigen test and . . . dah dah . . . we were postitive. It lasted just over a week and we had no other symptoms so it was a good time to get some jobs done to get the boat ready for cruising again.
While we were in Grenada we had a visit from Terry Singh, an old friend we had met in Pape’ete back in 2015. We sailed across the Pacific with Terry and Dena and a flotilla of other boats to Hawaii and on to the Pacific Northwest. It was great to see him again; catch up and share a few tales of good times with old friends.
Although we love life in Grenada Covid restrictions had kept us there for almost two years and we were very keen to get moving again. We have made many close friends there and put down a mooring in Hog Island so we will definitely be back for the hurricane season but now it’s time to raise the anchor and sail up island to explore the Windward Isles.
Brisk NE trade winds had been blowing all week but eased for a couple of days and we took the opportunity to sail to Carriacou. Leaving on a flood tide we hugged the west coast and skirted inside Kickin’ Jenny (an underwater volcano). We had a great sail picking up the easterly wind as we crossed the channel and arrived in Tyrell Bay in the early afternoon.
We planned only a brief stop in Carriacou to get our PCR tests for the St. Vincent and the Grenadines (SVG) and to visit friends Anne and John who run the Gallery Bistro. John cooks legendary British Indian curries – not to be missed!
Recently Neil has been getting into painting with acrylics, their vibrant colours and quick drying time have got his artistic mojo back! Seascapes, beach scenes, landscapes and village life have all been captured on canvas, plywood and even old sailcloth. Anne was very happy to hang them in the Gallery so if you are passing through Tyrell Bay stop by and have a look and a curry!
It is only 10NM from Carriacou to Union Island, the southernmost of the Grenadine island chain and part of St. Vincent and the Grenadines (map below). We sailed across in the company of Anne and Paul on L’Arcadienne and completed Customs and Immgration formalities in the small town of Clifton. In the afternoon we had a lovely run around to Chatham Bay, the wind veered as we rounded Miss Irene Point and we sailed into the bay with just the headsail up.
Chatham Bay is quite isolated with just a very rough track leading in from the paved road at the top of the ridge. A few beach bars cater to the yachts that drop in and it turns out that several other friends were also anchored in the bay. Julian on Aracanga has been here for sometime, enjoying the serenity and playing music in Vanessa and Secki’s restaurant. We enjoyed a few crazy evenings playing and singing with him and Vanita on Island Lady, and rocking the night away with Petra and Harry – the “Dangerous Dutchies” on Vrieboter.
SVG seems to be on the itinerary of many large private yachts and charter boats. While we were in Chatham Bay some amazing vessels came in: huge private motor yachts which look like tanks and sailboats 50-70m long, sleek and elegant. One evening the 86m Aquijo, the largest ketch in the world, anchored behind us. Her twin masts are 90m high and, although I shouldn’t talk about a ladies girth, Distant Drummer would fit lengthways across her beam. Further out in the bay the five masted 135m Royal Clipper stayed for a day and made a stunning departure with all forty two sails raised, over 5000m2 of canvas, sailing into the sunset.
After a week in Chatham Bay we needed a few provisions so sailed back to Clifton and anchored in front of the town. We had a nasty surprise around sunset when the ferry came in. Several loud blasts of the horn alerted us that we were in their turning circle and as the bow of the boat rose above us blotting out the skyline we hurriedly motored forward to allow them to manoeuver.
Clifton is a very laid-back, picturesque town with brightly painted fishing boats pulled up on the beach and colourful houses scattered around the hills. A patch of grass with benches and a picket fence marks the centre of the village and in the evening local people gather there to “lime” – hangout with friends. The supermarkets have a fairly limited stock but fresh fruit and veggies are available at the stalls which surround the square.
The strong trades continued as we headed north to Mayreau, a small island just a few miles north of Union Island. The anchorage in Saline Bay is gorgeous: coconut palms waving behind a white sand beach with the village perched on the hill to the north. Unlike Grenada whose peaks attract rain and verdant forests, the islands in the southern Grenadines are very dry. The low hills are covered with bushland, acacia and tamarind trees, dry grass and cactus. On my morning run I see small snakes slithering away and tortoises plodding patiently along.
As we head north there are plenty more Grenadines to explore. More soon!
Suzy and Neil
